CAMPED ON THE RIO FRIO IN TEXAS

Here we are in site 6 at Parkview Riverside RV Park (read camground review here), on a top of a bluff overlooking the beautiful Rio Frio River. As I write this at 3:30 CDT, the sun is making its first appearance in 3 days, the most amazingly humid days we have experienced in our travels.

How humid? So humid that the roads were wet even though it wasn't raining; so humid I haven't had to use chapstick or lotion since we arrived; so humid we switched from our usual flannel sheets to cotton percale; so humid the towels don't dry between uses. HUMID!

But not cold. Yesterday we took a long walk in Garner State Park, Texas' most-visited state park, across the river from us. Even in the low clouds and occasional heavy mist/light rain, we were wearing shorts and t-shirts. Quite a change from our recent days in Arizona!

Low clouds and mist didn't stop Texans from enjoying the weekend on the river - we stopped for awhile to watch these kids tubing the Rio Frio. The state park was full of families picnicing, swimming, splashing on the riverbank - a friendly, summer-like scene in spite of the gray skies.

Today we took a driving tour Texas Hill Country Trail, roads marked as scenic in our atlas. They were! We circled through Utopia, Tarpley, Bandera, Medina, Vanderpool and Leakey, each town an evocative mix of old ranches, small cafes and seemingly indestructable limestone courthouses and churches shaded by giant live oaks and elms. Closer to San Antonio, ranch driveways (so long that you can't see any ranch buildings) are marked by imposing limestone pillars or walls and ornate metal gates; farther back to the west, the fences and gates are far less ostentatious.

Our lunch in Medina marks the beginning of our BBQ trail, through Texas into Arkansas and on to Memphis. Since we left Arizona, except for the "enchiladas with the works" in Las Cruces, we have eaten at home every day, lots of vegetables, low-fat, high-fiber. But sampling outstanding regional foods is part of the fun of travel - and if you are an omnivore, you've gotta' go for the BBQ here - ribs, brisket and sausage (and heaven help the vegetarian). I NEVER get a smile like this out of Odel when I set down a steaming plate of whole grains and vegetables!