WANDERING AROUND THE AZ/NM STATELINE – RODEO, NM

My day got off to an early start this morning when, from the cozy warmth of my bed, I saw light first hit the delicate clouds forming in the eastern sky.  My back and hip cooperated a little more today than yesterday, and I was out of bed and dressed before the sunrise peaked.  I was outside in 25 degrees to take this photo – a bracing beginning!

Back indoors, I realized that I felt good – not completely free of back pain, but significantly better… definitely good enough to do some exploring – once the temperature rose.

Because they are so often mentioned in the same sentence, Portal, Arizona, and Rodeo, New Mexico, seem like the “Twin Cities” of the AZ/NM borderlands – except that neither is larger than a pinprick on a map.  Just ten miles apart, both can be explored in an afternoon, with plenty of time for hiking besides.  We headed out the door around 11 am, maps in hand.

We’ve decided to stay at Rusty’s RV Park through Sunday, waiting out the cold weather to our east.  When Odel paid for the additional days, Rusty mentioned a potluck at noon on Sunday.  We decided to attend and picked a simple rice dish that doesn’t need any fancy ingredients, a few of which we didn’t have on hand: cheese, corn, and a green pepper.  Consequently, our first stop was in Rodeo, at the tiny grocery store/gas station/RV park. 

As it turns out, Rodeo has not one, but TWO markets – both about this size.  We found all our ingredients (and not much else).   Just down the street, I wanted to visit the Chiricahua Gallery, housed in what appears to have originally been a church.  Odel had packages to be mailed, so took off on foot to find the post office while I browsed the gallery.

What an unexpected treasure!  Beautiful paintings and gorgeous woven scarves adorned the walls; appealing jewelry was displayed in wooden cases throughout the shop.  As I wandered through, chatting with the stylish woman staffing the gallery, I gleaned a few more bits of information/gossip about an interesting bit of recent history of the area – the arrival of multi-millionaire John McAfee (of McAfee Anti-Virus software fame) in this little valley, and his subsequent departure two years later, mid 2009.  Its a subject for another blog, another day – and a subject that residents are happy to discuss.

Odel returned, and we took off to Portal, Arizona, gateway to the network of dirt roads piercing the southern Chiricahua mountains, both of us looking forward to an easy hike or two.  We had a great day to be outdoors, sunny and a little warmer.  Passing through tiny Portal, we stopped at the (very) short Vista Point hike for a close up view of the imposing rock formations closing in on both sides.  I was thrilled to find that hiking felt good, no particular back problems.

Back at the car, we continued on up the canyon to Sunny Flat campground, where we found the trailhead for a 1 mile hike to the Portal Ranger Station.  We were the only people around, walking slowly along an easy trail through mostly leafless trees.  The sky was brilliantly blue; we were serenaded by water running down a nearby stream bed - Turkey Creek?  Soooooo relaxing.

Another point of interest on the map caught our eye: the Southwest Research Station, which Rusty had recommended.  We set off once again in the Jeep but, as the canyon narrowed, icy patches began to appear with more frequency, then snow.  Why push our luck?  We turned around, and headed back to Portal for a lunch of chicken enchiladas and refried beans at the Portal Store, Cafe & Lodge – topped off with ice cream bars.  Diet?  What diet?

HANGIN’ IN RODEO, NM – POPULATION 250+

Has it only been two days since we arrived here at Rusty’s RV Ranch (click here to read our review and see more photos) in tiny Rodeo, New Mexico??  Though we haven’t been able to do any hiking,  we’ve been mighty busy (a couple more days here in the old west and I’ll be adding “pardner”).

We’ve driven through Rodeo a couple times on our travels east from Bisbee.  Located in a beautiful desert setting at the south end of the Chiricahua mountains, this little burg seemed like an excellent place to kick back, be anonymous, and focus on chores we needed to accomplish before moving on to the east.  We’d eyeballed Rusty’s RV Ranch in passing on earlier trips; the recommendation from The Bayfield Bunch cinched the plan.

We were settled in our site by 2 pm, so decided to take a short tour of the neighborhood.  Our first stop was the Chiricahua Desert Museum, where the road to Portal turns off of Highway 80.  This new museum hasn’t been open long, but is an interesting stop.  About a third of the building is a gift shop, stocked with extremely appealing t-shirts (see Odel’s purchase in the lower right photo), beautiful beaded jewelry, interesting books about the region, hiking sticks, bags, backpacks… I’ll have to return later without Odel for sufficient browsing time!

The other half of the building is split into two rooms. The first displays art, books, correspondence, and other interesting/funny artifacts concerning reptiles and amphibians: the label of every bottle in the the huge display case (above, right) names or displays one or the other.  The second room?  SNAKES!  Not all of the display cases are occupied yet, but most held a snake (or two).  The rattler climbing the wall in the lower left photo gave me chills – we could hear his rattle through the glass.  An even larger rattler across the room… well, I just wanted to stand far, far back from the window.  That rattle definitely says “Stay Away” to me!

Though I had specific plans for our stay in Rodeo (hike, put together the required year-end reports for the Boomers, try out a couple new recipes), Monday had plans of its own.  My back, bothering me for a few days, was not improving and was a major distraction.  Something needed to be done.  I Googled “chiropractor Rodeo NM” – and found a chiropractor in Lordsburg, New Mexico, the nearest “big city” (population 3,000).  No appointment necessary, but the office was only open on Monday and Thursday. 

Off we flew.  When we arrived, I filled out a clipboard of information, including the answer to this question: Who referred you to us?  My answer: the internet.  Oh, my gosh, was that exciting for them.  The internet?  The internet?  How did I find them on the internet?  When I told them, they were amazed!  They don’t have a website, and didn’t realize that Google would find a directory entry; it really was pretty funny.  The adjustment took at least 30 minutes of hands-on work, and relieved a lot kinks and knots, all for just $35.  And then, 40 miles back home!

Monday night I felt sufficiently improved to try out a new recipe: Red Lentil Soup with a Spicy Sizzle (which refers to the hot olive oil, cayenne, paprika mixture drizzled across the soup).  Wow, spicy sizzle is right.  This very simple vegan soup was a big hit with us, for both flavor and looks.  We had it with warm, buttered, whole wheat tortillas – outstanding.  Since none of the ingredients are unusual (easy to find red lentils and bulgur wheat in the bulk bins), I suspect we will be having this several more times this winter.  I’ve added a permanent link to the recipe on the left side of the blog.

Once it was dark, we took a peek at the night sky.  This remote area is known for its “dark skies”, boasting a small neighborhood nearby dedicated to astronomy, Arizona Sky Village.  Rusty’s RV Ranch has NO outdoor lights (not quite true, there is one on the back of the office); light pollution doesn’t exist here.  I haven’t seen stars like this since I backpacked in the Rockies of Colorado many, many years ago.  Nothing like stargazing to add some perspective to life!

Today was a better day for my back – a little less hobbling, a little less distraction, a little more smiling.  We tackled the Boomer paperwork early, and we managed to get it wrapped up and ready to mail.  The propane delivery truck arrived around 1:30 – yay, as we were running low – and filled our tank at $2.60/gallon, shockingly reasonable considering our remote location.  With those chores completed, we went outside to bask in the afternoon sunshine – dressed warmly, but no coat required.

Luna is now fully recovered, and LOVES Rusty’s – plenty of room and, more importantly, plenty of dust!  She divides her time between wallowing in the dust (several times a day) and relaxing in a sunny nook we created for her on the bedroom vanity, in sunshine most of the day.  Oh, that we should all enjoy such simple pleasures!

NEW YEARS ROLLERCOASTER – BISBEE, AZ

New Year’s Day got off to a great start.  After the day warmed up, we hiked once again to the mountaintop shrine and basked in the sunshine on the viewpoint bench.  We could see remnants of the New Year’s Eve festivities in the park far below, watch tiny cars navigate tiny streets, hear far-off dogs barking and hammer blows now and then.  We spent about an hour watching the scene and enjoying the sun’s warmth.

Back down the mountainside, we were hungry.  Odel’s eyes bugged out of his head when I suggested we zip over to Jimmy’s Hot Dogs for a dog.  Wow, did that make him happy.  Off we went to Jimmy’s, where he tried a Vienna Beef sandwich (a Chicago specialty).  Halfway through our meals, I traded him the remaining half of my hot dog for his sandwich, which I thought was yummy – he preferred the dog.

Home again, we commented that Luna was way more demanding of attention than usual – and “usual” is pretty demanding.  Nothing we did appeased her, including food, brushing or playtime.  Curled up on a lap was the only time her meows stopped.  Cranky, cranky, cranky!

Next, I managed to torque my back somehow, really putting a crimp in my activities.  I hit the sack extra-early, bored with my inability to move freely, pick up anything I dropped, take off my sox…  :(

During the night, Luna went from annoyingly cranky to sick.  She threw up a few times and, most worrisome, broke her habit of sleeping on our bed.  When we got up in the morning, she hardly lifted her head to look at us, and her breathing seemed very fast and shallow.  When she DID move, it was to creep around the room, settling down here or there and emitting pitiful, soft meows.  She was suffering, and we were freaked out!

We immediately found a vet who could see her, 40 minutes away in Sierra Vista.  Frank offered to accompany me and Luna to the vet, so Odel could keep his golf tee time – but easing into a car seat and driving/riding that far was not an option for my back.  Poor Odel gave up on his dream of golfing in the sunshine, and he and Frank took off with Luna. 

Three hours later and a couple hundred dollars poorer, Odel and Luna had returned.  Blood tests reassured us that is was nothing fatal; the vet made a few recommendations and we put Luna under minute surveillance.  The adrenaline released during the harrowing trip (she loves riding in the motorhome; hates riding in the jeep) must have been good medicine because she began to perk up slowly.  By nightfall she wanted a bite to eat, and she slept in the crook of my knees last night.  Today: almost completely normal – she was able to throw herself into the deep dust upon our arrival at our new site, indulging in a good long wallow. 

So, who knows what happened?  The event totally trashed Odel’s golf plans, and a hoped for get-together with our friends Jim and Bobbie went by the wayside.  Now I am the only remaining invalid – and I am so grateful it is me, not Luna!

About half the rigs at Queen Mine RV Park for New Year’s left on Saturday, and another mass exodus got underway this morning.  Our neighbors on the right (Jeff and Margaret) barely beat our neighbors on the left, so the center of the RV park circle was quite active for awhile.  We thought we’d be the last to leave – we were in no hurray with only a short drive planned for today – but three of us started our engines about the same time, causing another traffic jam.

By 12:30 pm, we were at Rusty’s RV Ranch in Rodeo, New Mexico: 81.1 miles total distance; 54.1 mph moving average speed; 66.6 mph maximum speed; 1:29 hours total driving time.  It’s a pleasant drive through open range with ancient mountains in all directions.  The landscape was drenched in sunshine, the drive was uneventful, and we are happy with our site here.  No phone service, but the WiFi seems reliable.  We’re kicking back for four days, easing into 2010.